Second Line

I think Sunday was the best day of my trip to far. The hardest, the longest, the most tiring, the most frustrating, the most overwhelming…but still the best.

I think Sunday was the best day of my trip to far. The hardest, the longest, the most tiring, the most frustrating, the most overwhelming…but still the best.

On Friday, we flew from Mexico to New Orleans. We are becoming quite the airport experts, Eva and I, whipping our laptops out, disposing of our water, and answering our questions as concisely as possible. We have even inspired friendliness from those who appear cut from disapproval. I tend to be visibly excited, whilst Eva gives the impression of being terribly low-key…I suspect the combo is endearing.

So, Mexico is sinking…
The Aztecs established their capital on what was once an island, but when the Spaniards conquered the Aztec empire in the sixteenth century, they razed the buildings and filled in all the waterways, replacing them with streets and squares.

Mexicans are LOUD. They shout, blow whistles, honk their horns incessantly, and use animated pre-recorded spiels to tempt people into their stores. Even the roadside tamale bikes have a recorded voice that just repeats, “tamales, tamales, tamales” in a sing-song voice.

The pickup time for Thursday’s visit to the pyramids of Teotihuacan was 7am. Eva was out, and no correspondence was being entered into on the matter, so I dragged myself out of bed before dawn and, fuelled by Maxim (Korean instant coffee…you should try it), set out to meet my guide for the day, Sergio.

Anyone who has met my father, or has heard me speak of him, knows he is a pretty unique guy. A prolific reader, he is, quite literally, a fount of knowledge. As a child, it was easier to ask him things than it was to look them up in the encyclopaedia. The only drawback was that you generally had to sit through far more information than you were looking for, and would usually end up whining, “Daaaaad, just teeelll meeeeee…”.

Eva was suffering from an altitude headache (we’re, like, really high), so I set out on Tuesday morning alone to meet Jose, my guide and translator, who was taking me to his aunt’s restaurant for a day of cooking.

So, I’m a little behind in my posts, what with several Los Angeles events to put together, but here I am in Mexico, and half an hour ago I cried, so I think I really need to start with now…

Directions from our host in Mexico:
“…once you see the painted lady, you are home.”